The number of nail salons in Amsterdam has surged, tripling over the past decade as gel nails have become a beauty routine across all demographics. Yet, this booming trend carries hidden dangers. Prof. Thomas Rustemeyer, Professor of Dermato-Allergology and Occupational Dermatology at Amsterdam UMC, has spent three decades researching acrylate allergies and is sounding the alarm. "The glossy, long-lasting appeal of gel polish masks the risk of a lifelong allergy," he warns.

A Growing Trend With Hidden Dangers

For many, gel nails are a beauty essential. Also for Lilly Buffing, a 43-year-old hairdresser: "I have been using gel polish for twenty years. I know it could be harmful, but I cannot imagine stopping. As long as nothing rots off, I will keep going". Like many others, Lilly appreciates the durability and aesthetics of gel polish, which lasts weeks compared to the quick chipping of regular nail polish.

However, the method of applying gel polish —curing it under UV or LED lamps— and the ingredients of the polish itself introduces risks that extend far beyond cosmetic damage.

Acrylate Allergies and Medical Consequences

Acrylate, a key component of gel polish, is responsible for the product’s durability but also its dangers. Contact with acrylate can lead to acrylate allergy, an irreversible condition that can profoundly impact medical care.

Often gel polish is applied to the nails after a pedicure or manicure treatment where cuticles are pushed back or cut: "Our skin acts as a barrier, but pushing cuticles or creating small wounds makes it easier for acrylates to penetrate and trigger allergies," Prof. Rystemeyer explains. "Patients with acrylate allergies may be excluded from procedures requiring materials that use acrylates, such as joint replacements or stoma adhesives. This can significantly alter their medical options,” he adds.

Despite the growing awareness on platforms like TikTok and Instagram, many continue using gel polish, often unaware of the broader health implications.

Rising Allergy Cases

At Amsterdam UMC’s allergy department, acrylate allergy cases are steadily rising. Currently, 4% of patients tested show sensitivity—double the rate of a decade ago.

Prof. dr. Rustemeyer has observed the democratization of gel polish use. "It is not confined to one demographic. From children to seniors, from affluent areas to more modest neighborhoods, gel nails have become universally popular," he says.

Also at allergology conferences acrylate allergy has become a key. Prof. dr. Rustemeyer: "At the latest conference in Amsterdam, international experts shared data revealing a rise in acrylate allergies among children, including those under the age of three." The affected children are predominantly girls, which suggests these allergies are not due to incidental exposure from a mother's gel polish. If that were the case, boys would also be affected. Prof. dr. Rustemeyer believes this points to parents directly applying gel polish on very young children.

Reevaluating Beauty Standards

As a society, we need to pose a critical question: 'We have normalized polished nails as part of our appearance. Is this standard worth maintaining if it jeopardizes our health?

While the appeal of gel nails persists, it is clear the conversation about their safety is far from over.

This article is a revised version of an article originally published in Dutch on Het Parool.nl written by Malika Sevil and Raounak Khaddari. Access the original piece here.

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